Plantation Shutters - Inside Mount 

General Installation Instructions for Custom “Inside” Mount #1
This mount results in the front of your shutters being even with the wall surface. See figure below.


This set of installation instructions is general in nature and should not be expected to answer all questions that may arise during an inside mount installation of Plantation Shutters. This type of mount is detailed, and is usually performed by an experienced shutter installer. Those without such experience should read and follow these instructions carefully, guided by good common sense in identifying steps in your project that do not match these general instructions.

Tools needed:
Phillips screwdriver (power screwdriver recommended)
Drill with 3/8” wood “paddle” bit
Miter saw (power miter saw recommended) for trimming length of strips
Drywall screws (2 1/4” recommended, not provided)

General parts list based on the details of your order:
The shutter panels in correct sizes and numbers to fill the openings
(see Figure “A” … 2 shutter panels illustrated)
Hanging Strips (1 1/8” x 3/4”) for each window jamb
(trim to precise length needed, see Figures “E”, “F” & “G”)
Stop Strips (light block strips 3/4” x 3/4”) for each window sill
(trim to precise length needed)
Wrap-Around Hinges (polished brass) with screws (see Figure “B”)
Innerpanel Hinges (polished brass) with screws (see Figure “C”)
Magnetic Catches (shown as part of Figure “H”)
Touch-up paint (when appropriate)

Steps:
1. Unpack your order and confirm that there is no damage, and that everything is there, based on the information above. If you find damage, or that parts are missing, call
1-800-944-1021 Monday – Friday between 7 a.m. & 9:00 p.m. Central Time.

2. These shutters are “custom” built, meaning that just as identical window openings vary slightly in width and height, the custom shutters built for those windows also vary to the same degree. Sort through the shutter panels in your order so that you know which panels combine to fit in each window opening. Each shutter panel, on the end, will be marked with your acknowledgement number, and with the number of the item on the acknowledgement (item #1 = window opening #1) to help you pair the panels up.

3. Within each window grouping all shutter panels will be exactly the same height. Arrange the panels so that the rabbetted edges (see Figure “D”) overlap each other properly. When all panels are placed together properly, the total width of the set of panels should be about 1/4 inch less than the width of the window opening. The panels should also be 1/4” shorter than the height of the opening.


4. Install shutter panels with the “notch”
for the pushrod at the top. When installed,
the pushrod faces the room. (see Figure “A”)






5. The edge of one shutter panel in each hinge joint is “mortised” ... a special cut on the edge where the hinge is to be attached. Using the provided screws, attach the wrap-around hinges to the edges of the far left and far right shutter panels. (see Figure “F”) The barrel (pivot point) of the hinge should face the same direction as the pushrod, and the removable pin in the hinge should be “up” (same direction as the pushrod notch)

6. If your window opening will contain more than 2 shutter panels, you need to attach shutter to shutter using the provided “innerpanel” hinges and screws. Where 2 panels meet with rabbetted
(overlapping) edges, one of the edges is normally mortised, and that is where you attach the hinges. Remember, these panels will “bi-fold” so the barrel of the hinge must face the opposite direction from the ones in the previous step. Stand the 2 panels up on their edges on a padded surface with the pushrods facing opposite directions and the “notches” both at the same end. This places the 2 edges to be hinged in their proper positions beside each other. Make sure the tops and bottoms of the 2 panels are even, then attach the hinges. (see Figure “C”)

7. To help you identify which strips go where, we have provided strips that are just a little longer than the window jamb or sill where they will be used. Before proceeding, match up each strip with the place where it will be used. When you are sure of your selection of strips for a specific window opening, trim the 2 hanging strips so they will extend the full length of the window jamb on each side of the window. Before drilling (next step), test the lengths of the 2 trimmed hanging strips by placing them in position against the window jambs. Then, using a 3/8” paddle bit, drill “counter-sink” screw holes into the 3/4” side of each strip near the top and bottom, and at regular intervals along that side. These counter-sink holes should be deep enough to allow the head of the screw to be below the surface when attached. In most cases, a total of 4 counter-sunk screws in each strip is adequate.


8. Pull the hinge pins to separate the far left and far right shutter panels from any other panels. With the far left panel standing on it’s right edge on a padded surface, open the wrap-around hinges fully. (see Figures “E” & “F”) Position your prepared hanging strip below the 3rd wing of the hinge, and be sure the strip extends BEYOND the bottom and top of the shutter panel about 1/8”. Have someone help you hold the strip in place against the hinges while you attach it with the provided screws. When properly done, the hanging strip will swing behind the shutter panel with the “counter-sink end” of the screw holes facing away from the window jamb.

9. Pull the hinge pins and separate the hanging strip from the shutter. Position the hanging strip/hinge wing on the window jamb, line up the front edge with the wall surface, and use 2 1/4” drywall screws in the counter-sink holes to attach the hanging strip to the window jamb. (see Figure “G”) Carefully lift the far left shutter panel into position against (and in front of) the hanging strip and replace the hinge pins. Position any other (optional) panels beside the first one
and replace the hinge pins. When these steps are properly completed, these shutter panel(s) should
be able to swing freely without scraping (~1/8” gap) at the top and bottom.

10. Repeat this process with the shutters for the other (far right) half of the window opening. To maintain an even gap at the bottom, place something that is the correct thickness under the panels where they meet in the middle.

(NOTE: If you have sills of marble or any material other than wood or drywall, do not proceed with the next step!. The stop strip can usually be placed at the top of the window instead.)

11. Trim the stop strip (3/4” x 3/4”) so that it fits between the 2 hanging strips, counter-sink near each end and in the middle (3 is usually enough). Place it on the window sill between the hanging strips and adjust it “front to back” so that when the shutters come to rest against it they will be exactly where you want. Attach the stop strip to the sill through the middle counter-sink hole first, using a drywall screw. After placing the middle screw, line up one end of the stop strip with the hanging strip and secure it in place. Do not be concerned if the other end doesn’t line up exactly. When placing the final screw, use pressure on the strip to insure that it meets the hanging strip squarely.

12. Where the shutters come together in the middle of the window the right panel will overlap the left panel. Swing the left panel(s) fully open, then close the right panel(s) and lightly mark where the
shutter actually touches the stop strip. This is where you will place the magnetic
catches. Using the screws provided, attach the magnet to the stop strip. (see
Figure “H”) Magnetically stick the strike plate to the magnet (with the 2 small points
facing the room. Close the shutter and gently press in the area of the magnet so
that the points make indentions in the shutter. Position the strike plate using those indentions as your guide, and attach the plate using the smallest screw in the
package. If you have trouble placing these screws, drill very small “pilot” holes first.

13. Position and attach all other magnets in their respective locations using the same procedure.

14. In every edge of every shutter panel there is at least 1 tension screw (look in the hole). If the tension on the louvers needs adjustment, use a Phillips screwdriver and make minor adjustments. Be sure to spread the tension between all the available adjustment screws on each shutter panel. (see Figure “H”)

15. Painted orders are usually shipped with a small container of matching touch-up paint. If any scratches were made in the finish during installation, use a small “modeler’s” paint brush and cover them with this paint.